Issue #43
Last Update December 24, 2005
Arts and Reviews Gin Tribulations By the Pickled Beloved Maven Ed. Note: Our article on comparative gin tastings in our previous issue (Gin Trials, September 2004) generated a certain amount of interest, and some controversy. A dissenting note to that article was sounded by Peter Salus, sometime New York Stringer contributor and noted pedant. He wrote:
I found the article by Sten Grynir bizarre. In the realm I "live" in, the three potables tested are "gin" in the sense that "gin mill" refers to "gin."
True gin is made with juniper berries. It frequently contains other herbs, too. Generally, genever comes in two varieties "jong" and "oud." Boomsma makes a reasonable young genever. Hooghoudt makes the best old genever.
American and UK beverages labeled "gin," like those labeled "vodka," are an abomination in the eyes of the Lord.
Peter
Nevertheless, we have continued our research, as reported in the following:
Last week, as the sun went down behind the mountains in a balmy evening, we set out six bottles of gin to revisit the relative quality of these beverages.
At the last trial, all the samples had been brought to our standard freezer temperature of 1.6 deg. F. We realize that not only is it difficult to get gin that cold in a bar, but some of its qualities are lost under these conditions. We decided to conduct a new evaluation at normal (i.e. 'ice' temperatures).
With the positive showing of the Fleischman's gin at the last tasting, we have added two more low-priced gins; Gordon's and Seagram's. The latter was included based on nostalgia for a failed attempt to generate a misspent youth. We also added a premium gin, Beefeater.
The premium gins were all in the 90+ proof category, while the economy bottles weighed in at 80 proof. Each glass received about 35 ml of gin, poured over two 2.5 mm x 2.5 mm x 1.5 mm ice cubes.
Unfortunately, Orpheus was not able to be present, so the tests were conducted by Game Girl and the Beloved Maven. Starting with Gordon’s, Game Girl judged it to have a Carbon-Tet nose and a chemical taste, while the Maven likened it more to motor oil.
The Seagram's, with its unique yellow color was judged not to have much smell, slightly sweet - maybe a bit of vanilla – to the Maven, a hint of berry to Game Girl.
Fleischman's held its own as inoffensive - not much aroma, a fuller taste but lacking in any describable character. Both taster agreed that it was smooth.
Beefeater presented a slightly sweet taste, a mild nose to the Game Girl and a hint of juniper to the Maven.
Bombay again showed its aromatic nature, with a good finish, not bitter. The maven found it perfumy, while Game Girl detected a piny or fruity nose and a cucumber/sweet taste.
Tanqueray again exhibited it juniper qualities and stronger finish.
In this warmer, and more dilute trial, the differences were certainly more noticeable. All three of the premium gins were given definite approval, with consumer choice more a matter of taste preference than quality distinction.
The Fleischman's continued to get a 'drink this if they don't have your favorite' rating. While the Seagram's most likely would do in a mixed drink, Gordon’s got two thumbs down, even for that task.
Ed. Note: This pretty much closes the subject of gins, although adding Holland gins to the testing schedule is tempting. Equally tempting is a proposal to try to recreate Tanqueray by adding a drop of retsina to Fleischman's.
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