Issue #7
March 2002
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The Oyster Bar by Sten Grynir With the speed of turnover of New York restaurants, one that perseveres over decades to achieve landmark status must have something special going for it. For the Oyster Bar, in Grand Central Station, that something is good food and wide choice. Wisely spared during the physical overhaul of the rest of the station facilities, the Oyster Bar has retained its tile-vaulted, almost rathskeller look while brightening itself up from the creeping shabbiness that had engulfed it a few decades ago.
The menu, printed on a single sheet of 12 x 15 ½ inch paper, offers more than 30 varieties of oysters, 32 different kinds of fish (not counting specials), cold buffets, appetizers, soups and chowders, pan roasts and stews, and a large assortment of side dishes, desserts and beverages. The wine list covers the entire other side of the menu and offers over 200 different selections, with many available by the glass as well as by the bottle. An excellent selection of draught and bottled beers is offered those with a heartier palate. There is no chicken or red meat on the menu.
I selected the hamatchi (yellowtail), seared rare, for my lunch. My companion chose the Cajun-grilled catfish. Both dishes came with the day's mixture of vegetables. The hamatchi was exquisitely fresh, very pink on the inside, with a nice seared crust on the outside. The flavor was mild but satisfying. The catfish came as a snowy-white filet under a Cajun-spiced exterior, and was free of the small bones that often spoil the enjoyment of this fish. The $20-$30 price range is not inexpensive, but not out of line with the quality of the dishes, or indeed with fish prices at other, lesser restaurants.
We followed the main course with espresso and dessert (I had the dessert, my lunch guest was better able to control himself than I). The blood orange tart with raspberry sauce was well worth risking extra girth for. The espressos were a decent portion, not the mingy half-inch at the bottom of a tiny cup that so many restaurants offer nowadays.
As a dining experience, the Oyster Bar gives good quality for the money, in a spacious and pleasant ambiance. Service was attentive and efficient, without the waiters hovering. As a business lunch or dinner venue, though, it has one drawback. The high tiled ceilings focus and reflect sound down to the diners, making business conversation (or, indeed, any conversation) very difficult.
In addition to the main dining room, there is a small cocktail lounge for waiting for late members of your party, and the Oyster Saloon, a wood-panelled room off the Oyster Bar with a more club-like atmosphere.
The Oyster Bar and Restaurant, Grand Central Terminal, Lower Level. (212) 490-6650.
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